Rough Patagonia - Part 2

Our road trip through Patagonia continues to be very adventurous. The second part of the route we have chosen runs from Ushuaia via Porvenir to Punta Arenas, Puerto Natales, El Calafate, Los Antiguos, the Carretera Austral (Chile) up via Chiloé to Puerto Montt with a detour to El Bolson near Bariloche and finally through the province of Neuquén in Argentina. We will cross the border from Chile to Argentina and vice versa several times on this route and each time we will go through the same processes at customs and fill out the same forms again and again. We are already having fun with this. Now we know our passport numbers inside out. But on days when you're tired, a one to two-hour border crossing with migration and importing the motorcycles can be very nerve-wracking. So here's a good tip: always eat beforehand, get a good night's sleep and bring a good mood, then nothing can spoil your day! Let's continue with part 2 of our Patagonia road trip.

The drive out of Ushuaia towards Rio Grande turns out to be more difficult than expected. There is no wind in Ushuaia, but as soon as we cross the Paso Garibaldi, the wind sneaks up from the side. We've never had such strong winds before! Despite the Windy App and getting up at 6 a.m., the gusts of wind get stronger and stronger. Crosswinds mixed with strong gusts result in a steep sideways position. We have to keep the bike and ourselves in balance and on track. All our concentration and energy is now focused on the road and our steel horses. Sometimes it gets to the point where we have to take a left-hand bend to the right because the wind is coming so strongly from the right and we have to steer against it. Our helmets are almost blown off our heads and our throat and neck muscles are strained and challenged. The battle against the wind continues! It's 220 km to today's destination, back to Rio Grande. The route leads directly along the sea and the wind has free rein, so to speak, and roars across the flat landscape at breakneck speed. Grasses, bushes and trees are already growing crookedly. We have all the clothes we can carry and feel like little Michellin men, at least it's not raining. What a consolation. You always have to look on the bright side of the situation ;-). The gusts of wind are insidious and always take us by surprise. It takes mental strength, stamina, technique - to maneuver the bike - and a few prayers to the heavens. Sometimes it also helps to chant a mantra into your helmet.

Once we arrive in Rio Grande, we fill up our motorcycles. They swallow almost twice as much gas as normal... The wind also has a big influence on this!

Puerto Natales, Chile

After a week in Punta Arenas, we have received all the spare parts we need. We are drawn further north. Somehow we've had enough of the wind, but it's still a few thousand kilometers to the wind-free zone. So it's best to stay motivated, and we do, because in Puerto Natales we meet Salome and Dän again, the two cyclists from Bern that we met in Argentina. We are really looking forward to seeing them again after four months!

We are already looking forward to Argentina again! Today we have another border crossing and the Argentinians welcome us with open arms. Even the customs officers are always up for a joke here. We decide to drive to El Calafate to pitch our tent there for a few days. Not far from here is the impressive “Perito Moreno” glacier, which we would like to see.

El Calafate & Perito Moreno Glaciar, Argentina

31.1.24 Today we take a day trip to the Perito Moreno Glacier, which is 70 km from our camp. The Perito-Moreno Glaciar is one of the most active glaciers and is located in the South American Andes. It is part of the Los Glaciares National Park UNESCO World Heritage Site. Part of the glacier's origin lies in the Chilean Antarctic and part of its glacier tongue lies in Lago Argentino in the Santa Cruz region of Argentina. We approach the glacier on a beautiful winding route through the national park and marvel at the breathtaking nature. We are surrounded by crystal-clear glacier water and forests. We slowly wind our way through the last few kilometers to the parking lot. Here we have to leave Wanda and Barana behind and continue on foot. On small wooden bridges that run along the lakeshore, we get closer to the huge chunk of ice and it amazes us all day long. We are so enchanted that we can't look away. You can hear a rumbling, loud cracking and creaking. The glacier is active, it moves and makes us feel very humble. We are standing in the middle of a magical scene that seems completely unreal.

Some remarkable facts: The glacier is 30 km long and has an area of 254m2. The height from the waterline is between 55 and 77 meters, with the lowest point measured at 164 meters. The highest point of the Perito-Moreno is 2950 meters above sea level and makes a mighty racket ;-), whereby with a lot of patience and a bit of luck you can occasionally see a huge chunk of ice plunge into the turquoise blue water, triggering a medium-sized tidal wave. We are impressed by this huge spectacle in the middle of pure nature!

Back in El Calafate we meet Bruno again! We decide to drive a little way north together. Today's destination is Los Antiguos. Los Antiguos is on the border with Chile, where we spend the night and meet up with friends. The little town is celebrating its 76th birthday. Traditional dances are performed by young and old. The host country is Mexico. But first we have to drive through the Maldita, which consists of gravel, on the Ruta 40 between Tres Lagos and Gobernador Gregores. 10 km of it is pretty bad gravel. Piled up gravel and ruts await us. Luckily there is no wind, which makes life on the bike a lot easier.

Fitz Roy

Los Antiguos, Argentina

After enjoying a meal at Dora and Louis, we cross the border from Argentina to Chile again today. The customs officials seem to be bored and we are allowed to entertain them. We actually have to unload all our luggage and everything is scanned. The whole procedure takes energy, lots of smiles and once the luggage has been reloaded, we are ready for a coffee before we set off on the Carretera Austral.

Carretera Austral, Chile

The Lago Grail. Carrera or Lago Buenos Aires lies on both Chilean and Argentinian soil. The Carretera Austral winds its way along the lake. This is the official national highway, where double-decker buses also travel. Narrow, winding, gravel and a breathtaking view.

Catedral de Marmol

On 8.2.24 we continue on a 200 km long gravel road to Puerto Aisén and then to a hidden, quaint fishing village called Puerto Puyuhuapi, which is situated on a fjord. We spontaneously decide to stay one night because we like it so much. It's quiet, the weather is sunny and we let the sun warm us up. The next day we drive to Chaitén, where we look for the ferry to the island of Chiloé the following day. We cover 90% of the route on gravel roads and take in the beautiful landscape.

By ferry from Chaitén to Quellón, Chiloé

The Island Chiloé

Chiloé is known for its many wooden churches from the 17th and 18th centuries. Many of them have been UESCO cultural heritage sites since 2000. The Mapuche and Chono Indians had previously settled here until the island came under Spanish rule in 1567.

We drive from south to north, partly on small gravel roads to the fjords and enjoy the view with a picnic. Our destination today is the “Maison Bleue” about 40 km south of Ancud, which is located in the north of the island at the ferry port with a connection to Puerto Montt. 

Javier is French and has been living on Chiloé for several years with his Chilean wife and two daughters. His “Maison Bleu” offers travelers overnight accommodation with their own tent on his campo. However, his wife is currently in Ancud. However, we meet Salomé and Anthony, a volunteer couple from France who are also traveling and help Javier out for a few weeks. We spontaneously spend a few days in good company and help out. We soon realize that we are all connoisseurs when it comes to food. So there's always something delicious to eat in the evening, like: Choucroute (sauerkraut) with pork, an asado on the barbecue and, to finish, a Chilean specialty called “curanto”, which is prepared with meat and mussels. Javier involves us in the preparation of the delicacies and he celebrates and enjoys his cooking skills in a relaxed manner.

It was a warm get-together with an informative, exciting and humorous exchange about culture, language and culinary delights. Thank you Javier for the wonderful days in your lovely home! Gracias por su hospitalidad!

We continue our journey on February 15th with the ferry from Ancud to Puerto Montt. We have already pre-ordered tires for our motorcycles and hope that they will be waiting for us when we arrive. But how it can happen is another story on our journey. In part 3 of our Patagonia trip, we head back to Argentina to El Bolsón, through the province of Neuquén, where we experience breathtaking nature and beautiful passes on some wonderful asphalt roads. Unexpected gravel roads lead us to a couple of priests in Aluminé and then we end up in a Dutchman's garden with a glass of wine. Before Malargüe, an 89 km long gravel road awaits us on the official Ruta 40... Hasta luego!